Why are you quitting your job and abandoning your querida New York to go to the wilds of Costa Rica in August?
In his cautionary novel 1984 Orwell warns against the “mutability of the past,” but
coffee’s history is anything but quiet. Most (maybe all) coffee literature
discusses coffee’s rebellious past as a fuel for revolutions and social
upheaval. What is evident today, however, is the mutability of the present.
We’ve been able- we are able- to
keep the present quiet by removing it from sight or by giving it a foreign
tongue.
This project aims to afford the people who know what we consume, those who interact with it in its raw form
daily, those who coax it from the loins of the planet (or from the loins of
chemically drenched and programmed plots of experimentation) the opportunity speak for
themselves. No summary, no matter how padded with academic logic and historical
supplements, can do for the present what firsthand stories can. I’m looking for
individual stories of daily occurrences- both the normal flow of a Tuesday and
the harrowing tale of “that bizarre time when…” that everyone still regales…over
their morning cup of coffee perhaps?
The resilient, idiosyncratic personalities and voices of
actual people will do more for connecting us comfortable residents of the
global north to the source of our favorite beverage than any fiction I could
invent. The present is quite articulate if you can pause long enough to listen.
But why coffee?
It is only recently that our lettuce and tomatoes come to us
from Mexico instead of farms down the road, but for as long as coffee has been
consumed in this nation (think the day after the Boston Tea Party), coffee has
been imported from the world’s tropics. Whole families and communities have developed
livelihoods, lineages, and lifestyles centered around coffee. Many fincas are in the hands of fifth
generation cafeteros. With so many
years of a family business come stories; heirloom folk tales, grandparents
reminiscing about when they were young, and endless threads of people sharing what they’ve heard, seen, done
and thought as they labor and live together.
Salman Rushdie makes a case for fiction when he says, “The
human being is a storytelling animal, or rather, the storytelling animal; it is the only creature on earth that
tells itself stories to understand what kind of creature it is,” but his
rationale also works for non fiction. By telling each other the stories of who
we are, we become a little more ourselves.
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